Currant: American Brasserie

One of my regular haunts in Richmond just happened to be the best brasserie in Virginia as far as I'm concerned, and a definite plus was the fact that my best friend just happened to be one of the highest up chefs in the kitchen, which contributed to many a dining experience ending in an engorged belly and a painful toddle back to my apartment. I find the consistency of French cuisine in America comforting, and Can Can was my first true experience which I found to be great during brunch, lunch, happy hour, and dinner on a regular basis. The sentiment was confirmed when I was lucky enough to brunch at Bouchon in Las Vegas, but since moving to San Diego, I hadn't found the same caliber of Franco-cuisine. However, that aforementioned best friend/chef just happened to move here only a few weeks ago and during his job hunt stumbled upon Currant in downtown San Diego. It was a fortuitous discovery and perfect opportunity to put it to the test!

With Andy being jobless in a new town, and I being sadly underpaid, we decided to take advantage of the half-price happy hour menu, which is a solid 3 hours long every day. A happy find! The offerings proved to be pretty standard French-American cuisine, so with our usual selection of mussels (we opted for the French curry option) and fried pickle chips, both at 50% off, we toasted our cocktails (also on special during 4-7) and relished in our success. We had a few minutes until the bartender acknowledged us to take our food order, but they seemed pleasant enough, and with the other half of the small center-room bar being occupied with what seemed to be the male cast of the Jersey Shore dizzy with Cosmos, it was an excusable oversight.

The decor tiptoed the line of lavish and gaudy; many subtle classic touches were easily overlooked with the overabundance of garish additions. The bar itself dominated the already small space (the restaurant is located within the boutique Sofia Hotel on Broadway), and with it crowned on four corners with massive pillars, it almost seemed to be squeezed in as an afterthought. The lounge area adjoining the bar boasted several sage green velvety couches with pouf pillows aplenty- more nightclub than restaurant. Details fought to be recognized, and I felt somewhat claustrophobic nestled next to a giant support pillar on the left, a closely placed bar stool on the right, the section of the bar which no more than three people would fit at comfortably, and the floating cocktail rack above, which was towered over by another decorative screen which wrapped around the bar near the ceiling. Too much.

Our food arrived, and while the mussels were especially tasty with a thicker-than-expected yellow curry sauce, I was disappointed with the ratio of unopened (therefore inedible) mussels to opened. The fries were no contest second place to Can Can's, but certainly not bad by any means, and while the sauce seemed too similar to curry gravy to counter the nature of mussels which I find flourish in a thinner broth, it proved to be a glorious dipping sauce perfect for the frites. The fried pickles did not come breaded as expected, but battered in a light and delicious tempura batter with paired nicely with the house ranch. I personally find dill by itself to be somewhat overwhelming and prefer it as a paired herb, but for $3 I was satisfied with the plate. However, it falls short of the normal lunch/dinner price of $6, which piques my curiosity to the difference between the "cheaper" (i.e. less time taken by a generally less experienced cook) happy hour servings vs. the dinner portion.

Overall, it was a positive experience, and a place that will most certainly draw me to downtown when few places appeal to me enough to fight the traffic and pay for parking. Despite the oppressively small bar space and odd Gaslamp clientele, the happy hour prices are on the money, and the familiarity of brasserie style is one that will keep me coming back, perhaps even for dinner!

I love you, Thomas Keller

As a young twentysomething culinary enthusiast living a life in high-rent Southern California sustained exclusively by an entry-level professional position, I find myself gravitating towards more towards low-to-mid level restaurants with only the occasional completely gratuitous meal splurge, seeing as the reality of eating out doesn't always meet my dining dreams. As a self-proclaimed food writer, I try to be as critical as possible in my taste outings, but with my limited budget I find that most of my posts tend to be more positive than perhaps a normal critic's might be. Does this mean that I don't understand the subtle nuances of food and the experience of taste? I don't think so. I like to think that I simply don't waste my time with food that has even the slightest possibility of being mediocre; there's too much food to choose from and too few dollars to get it with, and with the abundance of GREAT food and drink in San Diego alone, why bother taking a risk when sublime surely awaits elsewhere?

That being said, there exists a completely above-and-beyond realm of dining experience, the creme de la creme of restaurants across the globe, Michelin-starred, reservations months in advance required, any of which I would sell my firstborn for the privilege of a single meal. The French Laundry tops this personal list. That being said, Thomas Keller- this blog is for you. Quite simply, how many Americans idolize certain movie stars or athletes with celebrity obsession, I don't like to think that I consider "American royalty" anything more than a voyeuristic infatuation that Us Weekly has taken too far by preying on people who have nothing better to do than gossip about the latest sex tape and Hollywood escapade. I prefer to get my kicks in food, and great food is only made by great chefs, just as great movies are only made by great actors. As a more behind-the-scenes person, it's easy for me to understand and appreciate another artist behind closed doors. Of course, as the only American chef to have more than one Michelin starred restaurant, Thomas Keller is the Robert DeNiro of chefs in our time.

Chef Keller (can I call you Thomas?), you inspire my mind and tastebuds far beyond any other artisan weaving together plates of mouth-watering delight today. Thus far, I have only had the pleasure of dining at Bouchon in Las Vegas, and I pray every day that will not be the end of my experience of your vision. As some take pleasure in playing music, creating art, shooting hoops, going camping, or what have you, I take the most pleasure from taking the first bite for the first time in a new restaurant where from the moment I walk in the door I am treated as though I am home. It seems to me that you share the vision of comfort without over-pampering, and the highest standards for freshness and innovation without stuffiness. You hold the belief that perfection in food is unattainable yet should never cease to be the goal, in which the happiness of the experience can in fact create a perfect meal. A meal does not start and end with the food on the plate- it encompasses the company, the talk, the setting, the moment, and the food just happens to be a fantastic bonus in which memories are made from.

I don't tend to lose my head irrationally over a "celebrity", but when I heard that you were appearing at Williams-Sonoma to sign copies of "ad hoc at home", let's just say it was shades of Beatlemania fanaticism which surprised even myself as I lay gasping on the floor frantically scrambling to check my schedule. Unfortunately, with a steady gig in the 9-5 world comes the inability for noontime ventures such as this would require. Luckily, I had a friend who happens to be in between jobs and with a crisp $20 and the promise of eternal love, he agreed to get a copy signed for me. I regret that I couldn't shake your hand myself, but it's probably better that way- I can't guarantee that I wouldn't have jumped over the table to at the very least kiss your feet and offer my undying servitude.



As a stauch vegan, I'm sure it was difficult for him to be in the presence of completely opposite-idealed people discussing their love of foie gras and puzzlement at the idea of never again eating short ribs or a slice of Fondo di Toscana truffle cheese, but like a champion he stuck it out. Beforehand, I tried to enlighten him as to the lucky experience that lay ahead, but unfortunately my enthusiasm could not be properly channeled through another. Please accept my shameful excuse and humblest apologies. I'm sure it was an embarrassing moment when he handed my business card for this blog to you, and I doubt you'll ever even take the time to read this, but if you ever do, please know that I hold you in the highest respect as a chef and sharer of food the likes of which I can never replicate, but only appreciate and aspire to enjoy at least once at every establishment. Your book now sits proudly by itself on my coffee table, and I have already begun to collect ingredients to further my culinary exploration in homage to whom I consider the greatest chef in the world today.

Thomas Keller, I love you. Save a seat at the French Laundry for me- I'll see you there soon.

Madeleine Bistro

Even at the crippling old age of 25 I like to think I'm still young at heart! I hit the big quarter century in fine style surrounded by friends, beer, and music in the City of Angels having the time of my life. The weekend consisted of midnight stumbles around Hollywood, sidewalk hot dog vendors, the obligatory Kidrobot excursion, and of course good eats. I'm not terribly familiar with the L.A. food scene, and I can't imagine even scratching the surface over a weekend. With vegans in tow, we were steered by our Studio City resident friend to Madeleine Bistro north of Hollywood in Tarzana which offers only animal-friendly fare with nary a furry friend served!



To be honest, when we walked into a completely empty restaurant on a Sunday morning, I wasn't expecting much. The brunch menu isn't the most striking, and the atmosphere of French bistro meets California streets isn't exactly the most unbelievable or unique concept around. I suppose the whole vegan spin is a draw for animal lovers who also enjoy a bite out, but the faux-McDonald's breakfast meatless menu for three times the price and nary a bacon strip to be found didn't tantalize my tastebuds as much as I had hoped for L.A. However, due to the fact that I was VASTLY outnumbered, I sat down and plotted my upturned nose decline of food.

Well, maybe ONE beignet. I'm hungry now, and that won't be too much to fill me up until we can find a BLT, right? I'll take a half order.



Adorable! I'm sure they'll be tasty. At least enough to tide me over until REAL food, right?



Shit, these are amazing. Have I been fooled by the carnivorous propaganda?! Is it possible that this hippie crap can be... delicious?!?



Delightfully so! Sugar in the morning isn't my regular route, but after tasting these piping hot, sugary sweet morsels of absolute pleasure, I would be willing to forgo the dry toast and coffee for the rest of my life! Homemade strawberry compote sidled along lovingly to the large, hot, sweet balls of goodness which happily made their way into my mouth. After trying a bite, several others at the table promptly ordered their own and all were gone within moments. Even a half order was enough to satisfy not only my sweet tooth, but my desire for additional brunching! Everyone was kind enough to allow me to steal bites from their plates as well, and I was astonished to find flavor explosions on every plate. Don't misunderstand, I've had plenty of experience with vegetarian and vegan fare, but to go in with low expectations and to come out singing praises isn't exactly the norm. I know what I'm in for and generally have a realistic idea of what's going to be sliding down my gullet. However, Madeleine Bistro is absolutely a place for those skeptical carnivores and already committed vegans alike. An added bonus is the fact that it's away from the hustle and bustle and hours-long waits in Hollyweird! Skip the line and head for Madeleine.

18621 Ventura Blvd.
Tarzana, CA 91356
818-758-6971

LAS VEGAS

If gluttony is a mortal sin, then to dine in Sin City is to dine well. My first trip to Vegas might have been for work, but my true goal was to eat well, eat often, and eat a lot. I absolutely succeeded in that goal, and through the good, the bad, and the expensive I experienced some of the Vegas greats. I won't bore you with the details of how I got to each place, but prepare to experience a 5 day extravaganza of food and drink second to none.

Planet Dailies at Planet Hollywood Towers:
Upon arriving to the Las Vegas Hilton I stopped by the Sports Deli to grab a Cuban sandwich before heading to the trade show to set up (it was no Kuba Kuba, I can tell you that). I met up with some co-workers to begin the booth, but by around 10 we were famished and decided to try a late-night spot for drinks and nibbles. The VIP lounge attendant suggested Planet Dailies at PH Towers, so we headed over there where I promptly knocked back a few rum and cokes to soothe my caffeine cravings while also achieving the higher purpose of forgetting my problems. Michel decided that dessert was in order, and with reassurances that he would definitely not leave hungry he ordered the monstrosity you see below:

Part cookies, part brownies, 3 scoops vanilla, 2 scoops chocolate, 100% delicious. Between 3 of us we finished about half before our bellies were strongly protesting the sudden excess of lactose. Let's just say it was worth it. As you can see, Michel is obviously impressed.


Benihana at the Las Vegas Hilton:
The second night was an entire group event, and someone suggested Benihana despite my protests that you can eat Benihana anywhere! Let's eat somewhere classically VEGAS! I was outnumbered, however, and the convenience couldn't be argued since it happened to be in our hotel. The service was pretty mediocre-to-bad, but I'm still a sucker for the little show they put on. I like to be entertained while eating. Since it wasn't on my dime, I started with the Sashimi sampler, and soon followed with the 3 S's: Sapporo, Steak, and Shrimp. I didn't bother with pictures of the main course (yes, Benihana is always good, but everyone knows what their shrimp and steak look and taste like. Not too much innovation there). I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the sashimi- definitely a B+ grade. Not the best, but for a chain certainly nothing to sneeze on.


BLT Burgers at the Mirage:
First day of the show! Months of planning, lots of money spent, spilling blood, sweat, and tears- the efforts were finally realized once the show opened. What better way to celebrate a long-awaited kickoff then by getting hot, steaming piles of beef? Since the Mirage is right across the street from the Venetian (where the expo was held at the Sands expo center), we toddled across the street to enjoy some famous burgers at BLT Burger. Without calories in mind, I ordered an All-Nighter milkshake (Kahula, Bailey's, Espresso, and Coffee Ice Cream) with a BLT Burger + Vermont Cheddar and "fat fries" (from options of skinny, fat, waffle, or sweet potato- excellent!) Let me just tell you something. When you've had a long, hard day that you have worked towards for a LONG time, there is NOTHING like having the first sip of an alcoholic milkshake, followed by a bite of one of the best gourmet burgers in the country. The All-Nighter was one of the best things I've ever put in my mouth, and that's not even a sexual joke. The burger had only the best ingredients, was cooked to perfection, and the fries were not too salty, not too soggy, and had a great flavor. These guys obviously know what's up.








Tintoretto at the Palazzo:
Ashton arrived just in time to meet me for a late lunch, and we had Italian on the brain. Since we were at the Venetian, I wasn't surprised to hear they had at least 5 possible restaurants, so we figured we'd stroll by them all and wait for one to jump out at us. Tintoretto seemed to have it all, "patio" seating (the confusion of time and environment in Las Vegas is a constant sensation that I don't know if I would EVER get used to), good prices, fast service, and a tasty-looking menu. I started with a Caesar salad, which had a really great dressing. Halfway between a cream and vinaigrette, fresh croutons, crisp lettuce- I'll give it a B+ for deliciousness.


I didn't hesitate to order the calamari to start. I love squid and eat it almost every chance I can get. This was lightly fried, with a pretty normal marinara dipping sauce. It's not hard to make calamari (or anything fried) taste good, so I'll give it a B- for already being delicious, but Tintoretto not doing anything to make it more so.


There were a few pasta dishes I was deciding between (also the pizza, which looked incredible), but I ended up going with the ravioli in a vodka sauce. It was the perfect portion, and the fresh Parmesan brought was the best part of it. The sauce was nice, nothing spectacular, and there was more of a focus on the actual ravioli than what it contained. Granted, it was good pasta, but nothing you couldn't get from the grocery store.


Ashton got the Brie-Spinach-Tomato panini, which I can only praise. The Brie was second to none, the bread was crisp and perfectly flavored, the spinach was cooked wonderfully, and everything melted together for a marriage of flavors that were delicious to experience. I'm fairly certain that the man-statue standing directly across the piazza from us scaring children and winking at women made the meal even better, though.


Sushisamba at the Venetian:
I had been craving sushi for some weeks now (it's an expensive food to like!), and since the sashimi "sampler" at Benihana wasn't exactly a pile of fish, we decided to go to Sushisamba at (where else?) the Venetian. I'd heard seriously good things about the Japanese-Peruvian-Brazilian fusion, and since it was our last night in town we decided to throw caution to the wind and go balls out. I'll give it an A+ for atmosphere and service, an A for innovation, but overall a B for general taste. I had a few good, a few bad, and a few simply yummy dishes. However, what REALLY drew me in was the SUSHI BAR. It was tantalizing to be sitting only a few inches away from the piles of sashimi, and it took all of my strength to not break the glass, brandish a knife, and cut my way into heaven.






Our waiter was superb and offered lots of recommendations, including the Japanese "Sawagani" river crabs, which were fried whole and sprinkled with rock salt and served with lemon. The gimmick definitely outweighed the flavor, but the crunch outweighed it all. It wasn't terribly interesting to eat, but to look at was great!






Another recommendation was the Yellowtail sashimi app with jalapeno and lemongrass. The sauce was supposed to be the key part of it, and it was. The lemongrass was somewhat the overwhelming flavor, but the jalapeno ends the bite. Simple, fresh, three solid flavors melded into one. A great dish.


I LIKE sushi rolls, but if I'm really in the mood I tend to stay away from them in favor of just straight up fish. Why bother with all the rice and filler when all I REALLY want is sashimi? Still, the Capoeira roll caught my eye, so we snagged one of those as well. Softshell crab, avocado, boston lettuce, scallion, and chipotle sauce melded together for a very fresh and warm roll that was pretty okay. The chipotle and crema dipping sauce served on the side was so spicy that a minor amount completely dominated the entire roll, but with the warm unagi sauce as another option it flourished. The end pieces contained the fried limbs of the crab, and the fried taste was the entirety of the bite. All in all, this was good. Not great. A little bland, over-fried, and depends too much on the sauce for flavor (but I'll give that saucier an A for his efforts).


Next up was the Sea Bass and Miso skewers with Peruvian corn. If you've ever been curious about the differences between Peruvian corn and perfectly respectable American corn, just keep in mind that size DOESN'T matter! It was larger, starchier, and a little sweeter than American corn, but was an interesting, fresh new flavor to me. Apparently it's very difficult to get fresh in the United States, but the owner or chef's brother (conveniently!) has a produce farm in Peru so they've got the direct source.
Niiice.
They marinate the sea bass for 36 hours in red miso paste, and then grill with butterscotch ice cream topping to create a sweet shell that provides a little tang and locks in the miso flavor while keeping the freshness of the fish alive. Ingenious. A delectable dish.


The Kobe beef appetizer was something that I especially wanted to get. Lightly seared otoro kobe beef, with warm Japanese mushrooms, ponzu gelee, and a truffled tofu crema. It was a fantastic variety of temperatures- cool beef, warm mushrooms, and room temperature crema delicately flowing on top. The gelee was apparent without adding an overwhelming spice, and the dish seemed to get sweeter with every bite. It was the most complex of the dishes, with a lot going on in the palate without becoming confused. A lot of light flavors melded together perfectly for a great dish.


Since we were such excellent, enthusiastic patrons, our superb waiter brought us an after-dinner treat to keep us talking sweet. Our choices were banana or mango, and we selected banana and eagerly awaited what might follow. The presentation was the best of the night, and the dish was perfect in its own right. One "taco" provided 3 small bites, exactly enough to get a sweet taste without getting stuffed. A honey crust enveloped a candied banana drizzled with homemade chocolate and finished with a smattering of dulce de leche. Light flavors, light snack. Perfect end to a great meal.



Thomas Keller's Bouchon at the Venetian:
Thomas Keller is like a modern day Michaelangelo that cooks. A classic in his own realm, a god in the kitchen, known worldwide for his emphasis on FRESH. Going to his French Laundry in Napa is a dream unfulfilled for me, but this was a fantastic opportunity to sample his cuisine in a brasserie setting.


I've only recently become a bloody mary drinker, but I spied one on the bar that just looked great. I ordered it spicy, and it came in a glass of absolute deliciousness. Even with stirring pretty heavily, the bottom of the glass ended up pretty salty, but in its entirety it was solid.


A mussel fanatic, I almost never visit a French restaurant without getting some mussels. The only ones on the menu here were the standard white wine/garlic, so we ordered a dozen of them and this is what came:

Obviously not a dozen. Our waiter was, for lack of a better term, crappy. He was completely unsure of himself, took a VERY long time to do anything, and I get it. Brunch gets busy. Don't think I don't sympathize, but this was pretty bad. Anyway, once the runner dropped off the mussels and the waiter didn't come by for some time to see if they were all right, we just figured we needed to eat them ASAP. They were spectacular. Absolutely perfectly cooked, no empty or barely open shells, and the container was perfect for actually dipping the mussels into the sauce and sopping it up with the bread. I'd say they were in the top 3 of well-cooked mussels I've ever had, but they should definitely consider some innovation as far as the flavor goes. Classical French is understandable, but it IS 2009. Perhaps a red sauce? Just a thought.

Of course, what would an order of mussels be without their fries? They didn't come with aioli, or even ketchup, and either would have been welcomed. Lightly salted, but not fried enough. They tasted good, and I use that word as a generality. Anything fried with salt is going to taste good, but did it satisfy me? Eh.


The Bouchon French Toast came immaculately displayed, exactly the quality of simplicity and elegance that I had expected. Flaky, soft, perfect warmth and texture were melded in a tower of perfection. The first bite was pure ecstasy, nutty, with no overwhelming flavors- simply a harmonious union of textures and flavors. The thin sliced apples on the top provided the perfect crunch to match the brioche and custard layers which flaked beautifully the entire time. Top notch.




Ashton got the Tartine du Tuna, which looked great and tasted even better. This was no Chicken-of-the-Sea mayonnaise crap. This was wonderfully fresh tuna whipped into a spread and served open-face with chilled eggs, fresh lettuce, and kalamata olives on fresh baked levine bread with even more fries. If you are a tuna fan, I'd recommend it, but I prefer my tuna in steak or sashimi form, not the sandwich form. Just personal taste, but this was obviously a grade A catch.


All in all, I dined well, and came out exactly $1 ahead in slots. I'd say it was a win-win week.