Food Wars- Lobster Rolls

Lobster rolls are to Maine what cheesesteaks are to Philly, and if you haven't had the opportunity to head to the cold netheregions of the Maine coast to enjoy one of the delectable seafood-stuffed sandwiches, I strongly advise you to turn off your computer and hustle there ASAP by any means necessary. Traditionally, lobster rolls contain a generous portion of lobster meat tossed with mayo and served on a hot-dog style bun; however, there are endless variations to the classic, ranging from the slight to unrecognizable. Lobster contains a lot of connotations in the food world representing power, wealth, and huge debates continuously arise around the world about the sustainability and availability of the clawed crustacean. However, with Maine waters teeming with these prized creatures, it remains one of the staple foods of the Northeast and the pride of generations.

While there are thousands of tiny clapboard buildings littered all over the state, each with their own unique spin or traditional homage to the lobster roll, Kennebunkport, Maine lays claim to two powerhouse institutions each boasting the best rolls fresh from the source of the Kennebunk River. I've actually been to the Clam Shack in my ventures to the ever-chilled state, and while there are few foods that San Diego can't reinvent or simply execute better than anyone else anywhere in the world, there's simply no duplicating the lobster roll eaten at the source. When anything is pulled from its home, killed in front of you, and served within moments of its death dressed on its coffin plate with only slight garnishes to enhance the still-living flavor... well, there's just nothing quite like it. Food Wars visited the seaside town to umpire the clash of the crustaceans between the Clam Shack and Alisson's Restaurant, so if your tastebuds are salivating (which they should be at this point), check out the episode's sneak peek below.



My own first lobster roll met its demise a few years ago at the Maine Lobster Festival in Portland, which is a fantastic food festival dedicated to the king of the sea and all his attendants. Let's just say it took a few bottles of suds to get that hat on me.



As convoluted as lobster's history has been and remains to be, it continues to uphold a crowning glory of a long, proud American tradition. I sincerely hope that the seas clear and lobster settles back into its rightful place as ruler of the sea. In the meantime, a hot buttery bun and some fresh lobster meat would do me just fine.

Pescado

Fresh? Sustainable? Farm-raised? Affordable? The worldwide seafood debate rages on and it's never a concrete battle with black-and-white sides drawn as no sea creature has yet proven its value and ability for a clean death without natural disruption or the lack of hormones pumped into its meaty flesh. The James River in Virginia hardly lends itself as an optimal source for fresh, clean, healthy fish, and yet Richmond continuously seems to offer a better stream of fresh AND affordable catches than the ocean-sided San Diego. While overall San Diego dominates in quality, Richmond remains solidly blue-collar in attitude and prices, especially in the notoriously salty Oregon Hill neighborhood, home to some of the grimiest and grittiest restaurants around- all of which have superior cuisine to even haunts of New York and Los Angeles. Mamma Zu remains one of my favorite restaurants of all time, and 821 is still a biking hipster's paradise with solid grub and cold grog.

On our last visit back to Richmond, I had hoped to satiate my omnipresent longing for brisque lack-of service with a bowl of Mamma's noodles, but Ashton's dad assured us that a new restaurant was a contender for our affections and its Latin-infused seafood couldn't be beat. Pescado now resides in the old Hollywood Grill location on China Street, and while the decor is an odd mix of eclectic hippie paintings with bright splashy walls and an upscale-feeling bar, it was packed from wall-to-wall with an equally eclectic mix normally found in O-Hill, from college crowds to bangled socialites. One glance at the menu and it quickly became obvious we were dealing with major contenders in the seafood arena.

Grilled caesars seem to be one of the trends in the late 2000's in hip eateries, and Pescado proved to be no exception; however, I must admit I'm a sucker for the lightly toasted lettuce plate. Hands down, I can attest that the greatest grilled caesar that Richmond had to offer could be found at Dogwood Grill on Main Street in the Fan (along with some of the best fare in Virginia as far as I'm concerned), but when the restaurant closed a few years back it left a gaping hole in the Virginia culinary forum. Pescado stepped up to the plate with their caesar and since their Latin-fusion brought an entirely different view to the plate I can safely say it's one of the best in town. Lightly drizzled with a spiced dressing, freshness exploded in each bite and while the cornbread served with it was slightly dry, the massive flavors wove themselves into a symphony of balance and offered a pleasant take on the old classic. Even the butter had a twist- a cucumber-infused smear lent itself refreshingly to the spices echoed in each dish and I found it to be a unique detail that spoke highly to the attention spent in all aspects of the meal.



It's a certain caliber of restaurant where one can depend on the night's special actually being 'special', straight from the heart and imagination of the chef and not just scrappled leftovers headed for the waste bin at the end of the evening. Pescado instantly struck me as that caliber. Happily, the special happened to be a favorite fish of mine, the ever-present rare seared tuna, with accent bolsters of pureed carrots served with a raisin compote and flash friend arugula and a citrus glaze. The textures were top-notch; crunchy greens the likes of which I have not experienced outside of notebook paper surprisingly blended with the giving flesh of the fish and soft purees to all build each other up in support of an overall wonderful dish.



Ashton got the triggerfish plate, and I can't pretend to know much about the creature; based on the plate he received, I can guarantee I'll be ordering it again. Curry and okra blanketed a starchy corn mountain in a wonderful blend of seafood, Spain, and the South. Maybe not Spain exactly, but I appreciate a good trifecta of alliteration and it's pretty close! Again, fresh was the emphasis and believe me, it spoke volumes.



I often skip dessert, opting for a savory starter in lieu of a sweet ending, but currently hailing from California, home to the freshest avocados the world has to offer, I found myself tempted by the avocado tart just to see if they would throw a wrench in the works of a to-date excellent meal. Rimmed with an appropriate amount of a red-wine sweet drizzle over an almond cup, they maintained a high ranking in my estimation by echoing shades of key lime pie (which I happen to detest) and removing the over-tartness by using a smooth fruit still proving to be freshly picked and prepared. Kudos, Pescado. We'll be back.

333 Pacific

What I wouldn't give to have the Midas touch! David Cohn seems to have found out the secret of turning all he touches into gold based on his extremely successful restaurant group, which covers 11 restaurants in San Diego and 1 in Maui. I had the opportunity to meet him at a food trade show before the opening of his 11th restaurant in Oceanside last year, and was struck by his pleasant demeanor, ability to cut the business chit chat bullsh*t and speak frankly without the hint of rudeness or elitist superioriy. To be honest, if I was in his shoes I'm not so sure I'd be so nice!

His latest venture, North County's 333 Pacific off the Oceanside pier, is still in its infancy and yet has been met with more acclaim and praise than many more established restaurants over years of toil. Multiple awards have already been won; steak and seafood blend together for a wildly innovative and solid menu, and with hundreds of their hand-selected vodkas from around the world, not to mention a formidable wine list to pair the food with, it's a match made in heaven. Entering the restaurant you are met with a mix of people- mostly nicely dressed 20 and 30somethings hobnobbing in the dimly blue lit vodka lounge, maybe a small handful of kids who haven't reached their teen years, a whitehair here and there, and what seemed to be the most attractive waitstaff in Oceanside. It was extremely upscale with no snobby overtones whatsoever. The view is unbeatable, and the space is large enough to accommodate an intimate pair or a huge family gathering.

Ashton and I had been trying to find an excuse to make the 40+ minute trek up to North County and justifying spending what promised to be a triple-digit meal. Based on 333's reputation, this was not the kind of place that we would be able to hold back. We finally had the opportunity for our 2 year anniversary, and to seal the deal I made sure to make the reservation online. A unexpected pleasantry I found was the "special requests" option on the browser. "Sure", I thought, "I'll just ask for a nice, intimate table and they'll do that. Doesn't hurt to ask, right?" Apparently not! Once we got there, we were quickly escorted to one of the enclosed-patio tables with a stunning view of the Pacific. Unfortunately, our reservations fell after the sun, but the people watching was just as good.

Surprised with the good start, we only had to open the menu to be even more impressed without having touched a bite of food. The waitstaff was impeccable. Elegant without being stuffy, knowledgeable without being snobby, the waiters danced around us in a constant ebb and flow of service without once interfering with the actual experience. Since we both had fish on the mind, we decided to start with a steak appetizer. A Kobe beef tartare salad was the special of the evening, and it came as though the greens were picked upon ordering and the meat had simply been peeled off a live animal. Lightly seasoned with pepper, the steak was just warm enough to accent the chilled greens with tossed veggies and a light Asian dressing. Absolute balance on a plate.

For the main course, Ashton decided to go for one of the more 'comfortable' dishes offered- wild striped bass sauteed with a sweet velvet corn sauce and paired with Maine lobster fritters. This proved to be a heavier dish, but one that sat well with the tastebuds! Velvety was the perfect adjective for the sauce, which was ladled with the perfect amount over the absolutely divine fish. I swear it was fresher there than much of the fish you could get on the East Coast! The fritters, though a side, spoke loudly and declared that yes! The word "fritter" can be found even here in the swanky Southern California food scene! Maine lobster is some of the best in the world, and that was proven again and again with every bite.

However, once I spied the word "ahi" on the menu, my mind was made up. The sashimi grade tuna came to life on a bed of elegantly steamed sushi rice and baby bok choy with an enhacing shiitake miso soy sauce. For some reason, I can never get bok choy quite right, and I still manage to enjoy the Asian green, so imagine my delight when I come across it when it prepared not just correctly, but magnificently! I've always said that if I were to work in a kitchen I would love to be a saucier, because I find that the true art lies with the details. Sashimi grade ahi tuna is hardly a blank slate to start with, and the addition of a delicately crafted sauce is the backbone that separates the simply good dishes from the award-winning, orgasm-inducing ones.

How, you might ask, could we find room for more? I can assure you that no bit was left on our plates as we obediently followed our mothers' instructions to clean our plates. Our server, seemingly via a psychic connection, offered us an anniversary dessert, but we quickly decided upon the pumpkin and white chocolate mousse cheesecake. I love the word "cheesecake". How can you go wrong with cheese AND cake?!?!



Just another special, unexpected touch to seal the wonderful experience of the evening. Many kudos to the chef, waitstaff, and obviously talented team of fine restauraneurs. An absolute must.

Sea Rocket Bistro

Why is it that San Diego, a "seaside" town, seems to noticeably lack affordable, fresh seafood? The majority of restaurants in the greater San Diego area with an emphasis on serving our fish friends are either overpriced, sushi (while delicious, a cooked meal is often necessary), or el cheapo a la Rubio's. I had high hopes for Sea Rocket Bistro, a local, organic restaurant in its infancy with seemingly endless recommendations and ads in local weeklies. As a general supporter of food-with-morals, a perfect opportunity to finally put the Bistro to the test came with Ashton's 23rd birthday. Just a hop, skip, and jump down the bustling 30th Street area, the parking situation isn't ideal, but at 6:30 on a Tuesday we managed to find something in the same zip code, despite the proximity to about 5 other restaurants and a corner bar.

My first impression was impressed- the decor is spot on. Whoever decorated the space has a fantastic eye for color, simplicity, warmth, and friendliness. The soft green walls were accentuated perfectly with the school of swimming cardboard fish that cover the industrial ceiling, and twinkling lights splashed along the walls seemed to be a cheap and adorable way to draw you in. It seemed to be split into two different areas plus a bar with a chalkboard announcing the specials of the day, which is great if you were sitting at the bar but completely unreadable if you were anywhere else. Subtle touches included the warm wood furniture and beautifully framed photographs along the walls.

However, while decor is great and creates a warm atmosphere in which to set your expectations high, I don't eat photographs. It's going to come down to the food, which isn't 100% of the experience, but the most important and basic of dining out. The menu was just long enough to be impressive but without losing focus. I really enjoyed their $2 Tapas inclusions, a quirky idea to allow tidbits to be tasted without breaking the bank. Our waitress had a bit of trouble remembering all of the specials of the evening, but luckily there seemed to be a veteran Bistro'er to offer support and recommendations. We finally made our final selections of:
One dozen oysters
Sauteed sardines
Winchester Gouda Cheese & Honey on bread
San Diego Fisherman’s Stew (recommended and received spicy!)- squid, Carlsbad Aqua Farm clams & mussels, and market fish chunks simmered together in a tomato-based stew
Yellowtail special (sauteed with fresh local organic greens and sweet potatoes)
Carrot cake cupcake
Chilled Bread Pudding (with seasonal fruits, served with whipped cream and fruit garnish)

Let me start with the oysters. We had made a point to go on a Tuesday purely for the 1/2 off oysters. I've harbored some hesitation with our slimy friends, and have some good oysters along with bad ones. Let me tell you, one bad oyster cancels out the memory of 100 good ones. However, luck was with us, and these were a fantastic way to start the meal. I find that West Coast oysters are a little meatier and saltier than their East Coast relatives, but with a dab of their unique cocktail sauce and a squeeze of lemon these were top notch.

We'd been recommended the sardines from a fellow foodie friend, and they were a big disappointment. I'm not completely sure what I expected from the generally salty, prickly, and oily fishes, but they were exactly that. Would not order again anywhere.

The cheese and honey bread was superb. Two slices of fresh bread lined with a hard cheese and a dabble of honey- simple, sweet, light, and delicious. Could have eaten a loaf of the bread with a block of cheese and gallon of honey, but thank goodness it was tapas! A delight.

Ashton's stew was actually better than I had expected. Generally, I find that seafood stews are the leftovers ready to get tossed and the flavor completely depends on the broth. This tomato-based stew was recommended spicy, and came sort of spicy; as a hot sauce collector, lover, and enthusiast, I POSSIBLY have warped ideas about heat, but this was okay. Not the best, not the worst. It tasted fresh enough, and had a nice variety of what seemed to be generally fresh fish and assorted underwater creatures, but at the end of the day it was fish soup. Not bad.

My yellowtail was perfectly acceptable. I found it somewhat bland, lacking seasoning and when you depend on the fish to make up the majority of the flavor you really need to have some wizard hands to use subtle spices and preparation to enhance it to its full potential. This had a long way to go to reach its full potential, and the soggy greens and squishy sweet potatoes didn't add much. The sweet potatoes were an odd combination. Serious meh.

However, faith was restored with my dessert selection. The cupcake was a little slice of moist heaven. I perhaps speak too soon with a blanket statement of new-found appreciation. Ashton's bread pudding was more like sweet mush. If what they served was bread pudding, then slap my face and call me Sally. Let's just say Ashton didn't leave on such a high note as me.

When I had asked a friend with a similar love of dining what she thought about Sea Rocket, she thought for a moment and said "Some restaurants get too much credit for being local, organic, eco-friendly, etc. If it comes down to the food, Sea Rocket Bistro doesn't measure up." I wasn't quite sure what she meant, but after having experienced it for myself I can see what she meant. It has absolutely everything going for it, the process, the ingredients, the people, the vision, the location, the creativity, the niche, the atmosphere, etc. Unfortunately, if I had had a blindfold on I wouldn't have given it a second thought. I don't want to deter people completely from going there- not only are they extremely active in the community, avid supporters of sustainable food culture, and offer great incentives like 10% biking discounts and the like, it's not a BAD place, it's simply not amazing. There were highs, and there were lows, but all in all I enjoyed myself, the experience, and left a bit wiser about food vs. food culture.